Friday, May 1, 2015

Not THAT Kind of Fetish!

Marc and I were rather surprised when we were initially looking at purchasing Kelly Place, to find that they were selling fetishes.  We were from San Diego—What did we know….?

For those of you (like us) who are unfamiliar with Native American fetishes, here is the scoop:

The Zuni people (northern New Mexico) have, in their tradition, picked up stones which remind them of particular types of animals.  Over time, they began to modify the stones, shaping them to more closely resemble the animals.  Now, there is an entire generation of artists who carve, inlay and shape a wide variety of rock types to represent many different kinds of animals and also corn maidens.  These are not objects of worship, but objects meant to convey a particular trait such as strength or wisdom in honor of or to assist the owner in this characteristic.  It brings the characteristics associated with the animal to the owner.  Others are meant to remind the owner of or bring some connection to a particular aspect of life such as the energy of the earth or the web of life.

This bear is carved from turquoise by Farlan and Paulette Quam.  The bear is a popular fetish animal.  It is the protector and symbolizes physical strength, leadership, and the wild, untamable side of humanity.

We at Kelly Place are proud to offer a variety of unique Zuni fetishes in our gift shop.  They grow on you.  Sometime I have a hard time parting with certain ones (like this bear!).  I have resolved to keep aside my personal favorites and let the others go to good homes.  They are ideal gifts when traveling because they are small and  most will not break easily.  Furthermore, even if you have a collection, you can always find different interesting animals, made from different types of beautiful stone, and carved uniquely by an artist.

Each artist has his or her own recognizable style.  Jayne Quam does the most beautiful and intricate inlaid pieces.  Herbert Halate’s smooth organic style is unmistakable in black jet.  I often suggest that a buyer search the web for the artist who carved their fetish.  It is interesting to see the faces of the artists and the other pieces they have created.

Corn maidens are different from the animal fetishes.  They usually have two sides—one a younger side and the other a more mature.  Often, the corn with which they are associated is also shown as younger and more mature.  Most of them are made from turquoise and the carving is exquisite.  The legend is that the corn maidens brought the corn and saved the Zuni people from starvation.

Other Native American tribes are carving fetishes too, but they are not held in as high a regard as the Zuni fetishes.  The Zunis are the best carvers of fetishes.

For more information, you can refer to these historic articles by Frank Cushing:

or these articles and books about Zuni:

Thursday, April 2, 2015


Yes, it will take you an entire day and you still won’t see everything—even in winter when some of the park is closed. 

In the summer, there are several ranger-guided tours you may take.  They cost $4 per person and may be obtained a day in advance at the park Visitor’s Center near the entrance or the Colorado Welcome Center on Main St. in downtown Cortez.  If you are going with children and don’t have a problem crawling through a short tunnel, Balcony House is the best tour.  You have no other option for viewing Balcony House except for this tour. 

We generally do not recommend the Cliff Palace tour because you are never going into the ruin, only in front of it.  You can see Cliff Palace directly just above it off of Cliff Palace Loop or from a distance on the Mesa Top Loop overlook.  You may do the first option in winter if snow doesn’t close the road to Cliff Palace.  The Mesa Top Loop is open in winter.  The above photo is taken of Cliff Palace from the Mesa Top Loop overlook.

The other ranger-guided tour, offered new in 2015, is to Step House.  Step House is on Wetherill Mesa.  The road to this mesa is only open in summer.  It takes about a half hour to drive to this area from the main road turn-off near Far View Lodge.  Long House is accessible from the parking area at Wetherill Mesa, but you must hike or bike from there to this large and beautiful ruin site.  Wetherill Mesa is less frequently visited than the other areas of the park.  It is supposed to be open May 1.  This photo shows just a part of Long House.

The Chapin Hill Museum and Spruce Tree House are located close to each other.  These are both wonderful places to visit and are open year round.  Spruce Tree House is usually a self guided tour to the best-preserved site in the park.  You can go into a kiva in front of the dwelling.  (The kiva is not as good as the one at Kelly Place, but you should climb down into it anyway—for comparison.)  The museum offers information, lots of exhibits of artifacts found on the grounds, and a gift/bookstore.

The Mesa Top Loop is a drive to several sites, with parking spaces so you can get out and explore.  Some of the sites are set up to demonstrate different kinds of domiciles used at different times by the Ancestral Puebloans*.  There are overlooks which give views of canyon dwellings that you cannot get to without rock climbing (if you were permitted to—which you aren’t!).  Sun Temple is an enigmatic building which you can stop at and view along this drive. 

One site which is often overlooked and is one of my favorite is the Far View Ruins.  Upon driving into Mesa Verde, there is no sign to turn into it because they don’t want you to make a left turn right there.  When you are driving out, you may be too tired (ruined…) to stop.  However, it is worth it, so you should leave some time.  There is a self-guided trail which doesn’t take too long to explore.

Kelly Place is 25 miles from the park entrance (30-40 min., depending on traffic).  From the park entrance, the drive to the museum and ruins on Chapin Mesa is 21 miles, but because of the climb up over the top of the Mesa (8,000 ft elevation), this takes about 45-60 minutes.  You will not want to drive this road fast, especially if you are a “flatlander”!

Besides the hike to Long House on Wetherill Mesa, there are a few other hiking trails, notably Petroglyph Trail.  This begins along the trail to Spruce Tree House and takes you to a beautiful wall of petroglyphs (rock art). 

As you explore Mesa Verde, be on the lookout for wildlife—wild horses, turkeys, as well as the ubiquitous rock squirrels.

The park is open every day.  The main road may be temporarily closed in winter if there is a lot of snow.  There are scenic overlooks, picnic areas, a campground, and places to buy food, drink and silly souvenirs.  You may not pick up “souvenirs” from the grounds.

The official website is:

* The Ancestral Puebloans is the current politically correct name for the people formerly known as the Anasazi or cliff-dwellers.  Anasazi is a Navajo word roughly translated as “ancient foreigner”.  Modern day Pueblo people have objected to this name.  Each Pueblo tribe has a different language and therefore a different name for their ancestors, so we are using English.  “Cliff-dweller” is not appropriate because these people had different types of dwellings prior to building into the cliffs.  You have to practice saying Ancestral Puebloan because it does not flow trippingly off the tongue.

Sunday, March 1, 2015


Nearly everyone will have a birthday this year, so this is appropriate for all except those youngsters born on Feb. 29, who age only a quarter as fast as the rest of us.  (I remember my grandmother’s sixteenth birthday!)

Birthday wishes are timely here at Kelly Place.  Kelly Place has been in business for 35 years!  McElmo Canyon Research Institute is celebrating 25 years of existence.  And our partner Elderhostel Inc., providing educational and economical vacation packages-- now called Road Scholar, is celebrating 40 years.  Kelly Place has been working with them from our beginning, 35 years ago. 

So enjoy your cake and candles this year.  We wish you all very many happy returns!

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Wildlife at Kelly Place

Red Fox seen at Kelly Place
We are frequently asked about the wild animals that may be encountered around Kelly Place. It is canyon country and there are a number of animals which have not been frightened off by the humans.

The most notable is undoubtedly the mountain lion. In our ten years on the property, we have never seen one here. HOWEVER, we frequently see evidence that they are around, and not on the fringes either. Sometimes their footprints are right outside our home. When I spoke to the Colorado Wildlife official about the danger, he told me that this is a “good mountain lion” because it doesn’t kill our pets and has stayed out of sight of humans. If they were to move our good mountain lion, it would open up the territory to another which may not be so good.

So we live with the mountain lions. We are observant of the correct way to behave if ever we do encounter one. That is to make yourself look large (holding a jacket or shirt over your head) and unusual. I thought I would sing the Star Spangled Banner. But never turn your back and run away. They are cats and if you act like a mouse, they will chase you. That’s why most mountain lion attacks are on runners or bicyclists. There have been no attacks on people in this area.

People frequently ask about snakes. We have no poisonous snakes in our property. There are rattlesnakes in the area, but they don’t seem to make it to us. We do have bull snakes (aka gopher snakes) which can get pretty big. They also can pretend to be rattlesnakes! One morning I found three of our cats surrounding a dry bush and there was a rattling inside the bush. It was a small bull snake rattling the dry leaves to try to scare the cats away. The cats just got bored eventually and left.

We also have small snakes such as garter snakes, but I rarely see snakes in the summer and, of course, never in cold weather.

Other reptiles include the beautiful collared lizard, which is frequently photographed preening for the camera (more likely for a mate). There are plenty of small striped lizards. It turns out that these are all female and reproduce by parthenogenesis!

Returning to the mammalian population-- We have skunks, raccoons, red and gray fox, and ring-tailed cat. Occasionally a coyote visits. I have seen a bobcat in the canyon, but not here. Mule deer are frequent visitors. They love our flowers and young plants. Last year we had a group of yellow-bellied marmots in the rocks easily seen from below. Some guests thought they were mountain lions because they couldn’t judge the size. It was obvious, though, when they stood on their hind legs (the marmots, not the guests).

Ring-tail Cat, enjoying our grapes.

We don’t have prairie dogs this side of the creek, but there are plenty of rock squirrels. It’s amazing to see them scurry straight up a rock wall. They are too smart. Marc saw one trying to open the lever-style doorknob on the office door. They did manage to open a push-button lock on a plastic container filled with bird seed. Now we keep our bird and cat food in a container with a carabiner lock. Squirrels don’t have thumbs.

Cute Kitty Visits!
Of course—the birds! Marc tries to keep the bird feeders filled, but it isn’t easy. We have a list of nearly a hundred species of birds sighted on the property. This list is posted on a bulletin board by the front door. We encourage new additions.

We have seen white-winged doves come in and take over territory from the mourning doves. Sometimes people think they are owls because they don’t recognize the sound of the doves cooing. We have three types of hummingbirds: rufous, black-chinned and broad-tailed. They carom around the courtyard from feeder to feeder. Sometimes one gets confused and tries to feed from a decorative light or guest’s ear! A scrub jay just arrived to munch on some cat food. There are Bullock’s oriole, hummingbird, and Say’s phoebe nests that I have seen in the trees. The white-throated swifts’ mud nests under rock overhangs remind us that they constructed the first cliff dwellings.

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Free Things to Do in the Four Corners: NE Arizona and NW New Mexico

For more free things to do, check out the blog posts for Colorado and Utah.

Hoodoos, petrified logs, bizarre geologic formations.
Spend a day exploring Bisti Wilderness, New Mexico.
Three of the Four Corners belong mostly to the Navajo Nation: Arizona, New Mexico and Utah. Both Arizona and New Mexico have sites that are known for the presence of Ancestral Puebloan ruins: Canyon de Chelly (pronounced "shay") in Arizona and Chaco Canyon in New Mexico.

Canyon de Chelly is located on Navajo land and Navajo people still live and farm in the Canyon. A tour of the Canyon floor, led by Navajo guides, will cost money, but the road which loops around the Canyon offers spectacular views of cliff-dweller ruins and beautiful rock formations. There are overlooks from both the north and the south rims. The history of the Navajos in Canyon de Chelly is both fascinating and sad. When Kit Carson was charged with "rounding up" all Navajos and leading them on the Long Walk to what was almost a concentration camp in Texas, some Navajos were able to avoid being captured and continue living in this area using their knowledge of the land. I recommend reading up on the history of this area in conjunction with your visit. Knowledge of past events will enrich your experience visiting the Canyon.

Going further west, you can't miss the Glen Canyon Dam and beautiful Lake Powell. The visitor's center in Page offers an amazing view of this massive dam and the lake it formed. Lake Powell, in the Glen Canyon Recreation Area, is such an unusual body of water, with innumerable small fingers and tiny crevices to explore. You can pay for tours or houseboats, or you can bring your own kayak and explore independently.

Closer to the Arizona corner, lies Shiprock, the Navajo town and the rock formation. Although the formation was named because of it's similarity to a large sailing ship, the Native Americans see it differently--as the spread wing of an eagle with the rest of the bird underground. You can drive up to Shiprock, but the most intriguing view (featured on a National Geographic Magazine cover) is from a road which heads over the Lukachukai Mountain pass (towards the north rim of Canyon de Chelly). Shiprock is actually a volcanic vent and there is a ridge of shorter volcanic vents terminating at the larger formation. Including the ridge of vents in your photo of Shiprock gives a wonderful perspective shot.

In New Mexico, Chaco Canyon National Monument has a small fee to enter, so, although it is definitely worth exploring, it can't be included here. However, west of Chaco, just south of Bloomfield is a bizarre lunar landscape--Bisti Wilderness. From the parking area, some walking is required to get to the incredible hoodoos, petrified logs, and mounds of the strangest rock formations. You can climb all over these to find geologic treasures and really stretch your imagination with your camera. No facilities at this desert wonderland, so bring food and water for hours of exploration.